Living with uncertainty

Motiva 39 Kabelsalat

Tomorrow I want to cast off the lines in Tazacorte. Dominica is calling: 5,000 kilometres, four weeks at sea. I am looking forward – and not looking forward. Because I can’t estimate what’s in store for me. Living with uncertainty is an ambivalent state. REYKJA lay in the harbour of Tazacorte for four months. My … Read more


Cumbra Vieja

“What are your plans?” everyone asks everyone at the jetty in Tazacorte. “Grenada” it answers, or “Gambia”, or “Greece”. Country names like bubbles. They glitter, reflect something of the travellers self and often burst with clichés. What are you looking for, in Grenada, Gambia or Greece? would perhaps be a better question. Why are you … Read more

Experiments with tradewinds sailing. The video

Just under six days sailing alone across the Atlantic. It’s 500 nautical miles, 900 kilometres. At first the waves are high. When they calm down, I can experiment. How can I sail in a trade wind? Deploy the two headsails? One headsail and the mainsail? Only one headsail? I find a setting that convinces. And then I have to make another big decision…

In the parallel world

Men in flowing caftans, women covered with shawls. Scarred, horrible wounds, beggars with hollow hands, black eyes and hair, running children, praying men on the jetty, the smell of decay and barbecue, buses on the opposite lane. Morocco is one sensory overload. For three weeks I dive into a parallel world to Europe’s boring predictability. … Read more

Half of the Atlantic

Auf See 1

Non-stop sailing from Greece to Gibraltar. For the 2500 kilometres I need 15 days and a well-filled diesel tank. It is half of an Atlantic crossing. And it works out fine. Good sailing moments, prudent professional ships and a successful escape from the boiling Mediterranean. We leave the sheltering bay of Pylos, Peleponnes. Yesterday’s storm … Read more

From sea dog to country bumpkin

Tropfsteinhölhle bei Adrianos

Marina Agios Nikolaos, Crete. I moor backwards. A gust of wind grabs the ship and lays it across. Helpers pour out of other yachts, staining their white T-shirts with the slime of bog ropes. Five of us moor Reykja at jetty C 4. She will stay here for half a year. It will be the … Read more

Looking away – but where to?

Zivilisationsmüll - Adrianos Schlucht, Kreta

The first thing I see of Greece is a floating pet bottle in the blue water off the Peloponnese. I do a man-overboard maneuver and fish it up. It was a mistake. A real Greek would not only have let it drift, but would have thrown his cardboard coffee cup after it. Diving in Peleponnes. … Read more

Bull in a China Shop

When you travel, you make a fool of yourself. You stumble over a lack of language skills, unwritten rules, narcissistic pride of the locals. As long as it’s not about his bulging wallet, the traveller is far below. And when authorities are involved, only humility help. “Ochi!” shouts the woman from the Coast Guard. “Ochi! … Read more