Sailing REYKJA – Stories of sea and land

Travel and discovery – in the age of tourism

12. September 2023 by Reinhard Kramm

Is there real encounter? Discoveries? Can I travel without being a tourist? As an occasional traveller, I feel like a fool. Strikingly different. Quirky, with endless time on my hands. Is it worth this humilation? Dominica, Caribbean. I am standing on the arterial road of the capital. At some point a minibus is supposed to … Read more

Sailing alone across the Pacific Ocean – Part 2. French Polynesia under sail.

12. September 202311. September 2023 by Reinhard Kramm

Intact islands, stunning landscapes. In the middle of the Pacific. This is the best country I have seen – so far. I meet friendly people, search for weathered tikis, marvel at enigmatic fish and screeching birds. And learn how to navigate the atoll: strong currents in the passes, nasty coral reefs in the unmapped lagoon. My route: From Hiva Oa in the Marquesan archipelago to Tahiti, Fakrarava and Tikehau in the Tuamotu archipelago.

Sailing alone across the Pacific Ocean. From Panama to French Polynesia

14. July 2023 by Reinhard Kramm

My longest blue water trip so far; 35 days at sea. I am sailing solo on Reykja, a 35 year old steel yacht. It goes through the Panama Canal to Hiva Oa, French Polynesia. The distance is about 8000 kilometers. This part of the Pacific is remote, I don’t see a single ship during the whole time. But many other things.

Oh how beautiful is Panama

7. June 2023 by Reinhard Kramm

Panama, that is colorful birds with garish whistling tones. Panama, that is shameless extortion by immigration officials, high canal fees, latent criminality. Gladly I left, never to come back. But for three weeks I was happy to be in Panama. “Who is your agent?” is the standard question in the marina. No normal traveler, the … Read more

Bushwalking Dominica’s Jungle. The Video

27. March 202321. March 2023 by Reinhard Kramm

Almost nobody knows Dominica. That makes this Caribbean Island an “insider tip”. Half of Dominica is supposed to be rainforest, jungle. There are active volcanoes. Steep mountains. And a trail. You can walk the entire island yourself. This is my outdoor project: I will bushwalk Dominica’s jungle.

Sailing alone across the Atlantic Ocean. The video

4. March 20233. March 2023 by Reinhard Kramm

My first Atlantic crossing. I am alone on the 12-metre REYKJA, a 35-year-old steel yacht. I am sailing from La Palma, Canary Islands, directly to Domenica, Caribbean. The distance is 2790 nautical miles, more than 5000 kilometres. It takes me 24 days.

Living with uncertainty

29. January 2023 by Reinhard Kramm

Tomorrow I want to cast off the lines in Tazacorte. Dominica is calling: 5,000 kilometres, four weeks at sea. I am looking forward – and not looking forward. Because I can’t estimate what’s in store for me. Living with uncertainty is an ambivalent state. REYKJA lay in the harbour of Tazacorte for four months. My … Read more

Why?

25. December 20222. December 2022 by Reinhard Kramm

“What are your plans?” everyone asks everyone at the jetty in Tazacorte. “Grenada” it answers, or “Gambia”, or “Greece”. Country names like bubbles. They glitter, reflect something of the travellers self and often burst with clichés. What are you looking for, in Grenada, Gambia or Greece? would perhaps be a better question. Why are you … Read more

Experiments with tradewinds sailing. The video

4. March 20233. September 2022 by Reinhard Kramm

Just under six days sailing alone across the Atlantic. It’s 500 nautical miles, 900 kilometres. At first the waves are high. When they calm down, I can experiment. How can I sail in a trade wind? Deploy the two headsails? One headsail and the mainsail? Only one headsail? I find a setting that convinces. And then I have to make another big decision…

In the parallel world

23. August 202222. August 2022 by Reinhard Kramm

Men in flowing caftans, women covered with shawls. Scarred, horrible wounds, beggars with hollow hands, black eyes and hair, running children, praying men on the jetty, the smell of decay and barbecue, buses on the opposite lane. Morocco is one sensory overload. For three weeks I dive into a parallel world to Europe’s boring predictability. … Read more