Can I sail a reef system with wind alone and without a motor? How does it feel to cross submerged volcanoes that reach up to 30 meters below the surface? My route: from Samoa to Niuatoputapu and the Vava’u archipelago in Tonga.
The spell is broken
For eight weeks in French Polynesia, I was enchanted. Landscapes I’d never seen before, friendly people, unspoilt nature. When I arrived in Samoa and Tonga, the feeling of flow changed. Suddenly everything becomes difficult and tedious. Why? Is that also part of travelling? Apia harbour in Samoa. I’ve been waiting three hours for the harbour … Read more
Gale and doldrums. Sailing from Bora Bora to Samoa
Life goes differently than my planning. Actually, I wanted to sail to Penrhyn, the northernmost Cook Island. Instead, I end up in a Doldrum area, a stationary zone with no wind. New plan, new course. And instead of doldrums, now gale is predicted. Will I find shelter in the middle of the open Pacific? Or do I have to go through it? My route: from Bora Bora via Suwarrow to Samoa, in the middle of the Pacific.
Travel and discovery – in the age of tourism
Is there real encounter? Discoveries? Can I travel without being a tourist? As an occasional traveller, I feel like a fool. Strikingly different. Quirky, with endless time on my hands. Is it worth this humilation? Dominica, Caribbean. I am standing on the arterial road of the capital. At some point a minibus is supposed to … Read more
Sailing alone across the Pacific Ocean – Part 2. French Polynesia under sail.
Intact islands, stunning landscapes. In the middle of the Pacific. This is the best country I have seen – so far. I meet friendly people, search for weathered tikis, marvel at enigmatic fish and screeching birds. And learn how to navigate the atoll: strong currents in the passes, nasty coral reefs in the unmapped lagoon. My route: From Hiva Oa in the Marquesan archipelago to Tahiti, Fakrarava and Tikehau in the Tuamotu archipelago.
Sailing alone across the Pacific Ocean. From Panama to French Polynesia
My longest blue water trip so far; 35 days at sea. I am sailing solo on Reykja, a 35 year old steel yacht. It goes through the Panama Canal to Hiva Oa, French Polynesia. The distance is about 8000 kilometers. This part of the Pacific is remote, I don’t see a single ship during the whole time. But many other things.
Oh how beautiful is Panama
Panama, that is colorful birds with garish whistling tones. Panama, that is shameless extortion by immigration officials, high canal fees, latent criminality. Gladly I left, never to come back. But for three weeks I was happy to be in Panama. “Who is your agent?” is the standard question in the marina. No normal traveler, the … Read more
Bushwalking Dominica’s Jungle. The Video
Almost nobody knows Dominica. That makes this Caribbean Island an “insider tip”. Half of Dominica is supposed to be rainforest, jungle. There are active volcanoes. Steep mountains. And a trail. You can walk the entire island yourself. This is my outdoor project: I will bushwalk Dominica’s jungle.
Sailing alone across the Atlantic Ocean. The video
My first Atlantic crossing. I am alone on the 12-metre REYKJA, a 35-year-old steel yacht. I am sailing from La Palma, Canary Islands, directly to Domenica, Caribbean. The distance is 2790 nautical miles, more than 5000 kilometres. It takes me 24 days.
Living with uncertainty
Tomorrow I want to cast off the lines in Tazacorte. Dominica is calling: 5,000 kilometres, four weeks at sea. I am looking forward – and not looking forward. Because I can’t estimate what’s in store for me. Living with uncertainty is an ambivalent state. REYKJA lay in the harbour of Tazacorte for four months. My … Read more